Monza: Citta del capello

October 14, 2024

In the world of fine headwear, the craft is called millinery. That is because the center of luxury hat production was in Lombardy. “Milliner” is an English corruption of the name for that province’s famous fashion and commercial capital, Milan. Not far from the north Italian metropolis is the city of Monza. Today known for its Grand Prix circuit, it was once known as “the city of the hat“ because of the sheer volume of daily output from the city’s milliners. Ironically it was the post-WW2 economic recovery that slowly but surely squeezed many hat manufacturers out of business. On one hand there was the expense of handcrafted products compared with those from modern mechanized factories. On the other automobile and air transport rendered the regular head cover outdoors obsolete. A return of global textile and clothing production to East and South Asia added to the competitive pressure. When producers disappeared so did customers. Habits of dress changed, leaving the hatter with nostalgia instead of novelty. After two great wars, the market for tradition was exhausted.

Nonetheless there are still artisans whose craft evokes more passion than their credit card limit. They continue to produce for a clientele inoculated against compulsive fashion trends. These individuals have not lost the sense of thinking through one’s hands- of the unity of mind and body expressed in their handicrafts. They maintain their small businesses and bequeath their spirit from one generation to the next.

Fortunately those who appreciate the quality craftsmanship are not extinct. Bringing the interested clientele to the passionate producer is certainly challenging. And yet there are Italians who take this challenge smiling.

For many Italy is a land associated with temperamental, even excessively emotional people. It is rare to see an Italian speaking without energetic hand movements, even when using the telephone. That apparent excess of emotion and physical energy does more than wave through the air. Italy is a country where hands produce flair. The ubiquitous ballcap requires little thought and even less imagination. However to create headwear of distinction and character one needs passion that can be transmitted into artisan skills. Head shapes vary as much as the ideas and sounds they emit.

Covering the human summit, whether with felt or straw is a task perhaps not as daunting as the ascent of the Himalayas. Yet it can only be accomplished with skill and training. Families of hat-makers can still be found along the Appian Way, from Monza to Montappone with traditions of headwear both for night and day.

There are still some exceptional men and women who look for the extraordinary beauty of handcrafted products. I share their interest, hence my passionate journeys to rediscover these sources of beauty and craftsmanship.

Picture of Ignatious Joseph

Ignatious Joseph

Author & Designer

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